I have a particular affinity for Japanese cuisine, finding myself easily drawn to its soulful flavours. To add to my intrigue, a homegrown restaurant, which opened in Jumeirah 1 earlier this month, calls itself a “neo-Tokyo dining gallery”.
The concept promises to embrace non-traditional methods and deliver a modern take on dishes. The “gallery” element, meanwhile, is meant to evoke an artistic atmosphere.
I head on over mere days after Tanso opens, and here’s how it measures up.
First impressions
Nestled in a discreet nook on Jumeirah Road, the beige-and-stone villa that houses Tanso offers a glimpse into the relaxed interior, washed in warm light. Valet service eliminates the stress of parking.
Then it comes to deciding on seating: outdoors with a view of the busy street, indoors on red couches that complement the stone walls, upstairs on the more secluded rooftop, or in a private dining room fit for eight.
My guest and I opt for the comfy indoor couches under cosy lighting and, crucially, in air conditioning. A cool towel upon being seated is a refreshing touch as the days edge closer to summer.
The menu
Alongside its main offerings, Tanso also has a seasonal menu that changes every three months.
Until July, the restaurant is offering a range of GCC-inspired dishes made using Japanese techniques. For our meal, we move between the two menus.
We start with three varieties of edamame, each priced at Dh30. The classic version aside, my favourite is the spicy bowl thanks to its moreish zing, while my guest prefers the charred edamame coated in Wagyu tallow, which has a heavier bite.
A series of small bites follow. First up is a cold plate of bite-sized fish and chips (Dh58). Name aside, it’s nothing like what you might taste in a British chip shop, but rather a crunchy layer of potato pave topped with seabass sashimi. A brush of truffle kosho adds zest and spice to an otherwise mild dish.
Twists on global cuisine staples continue with the Wagyu French toast (Dh92), a layer of toasted milk bread, topped with juicy Wagyu striploin and elevated with premium Oscietra caviar.
The mushroom salad (Dh62), meanwhile, is minimal yet surprisingly satisfying. Playing with temperature and texture, the warm mushroom medley is tossed with crunchy baby gem lettuce and shiitake crisps, tied together with a light creamy dressing and 24-month-aged Parmesan.
Next up, is “soil” (Dh45), an exemplary chargrilled aubergine that perfectly balances smoky, tangy and umami flavour profiles – but more on this below.
For mains, we opt for Chilean seabass (Dh118) from the standard menu. The fall-apart-at-a-touch fish sits in a warm ginger sauce and is topped with edamame relish. It's fresh, light and hits all the right Asian flavour notes.
From the seasonal menu, we try “local” (Dh98): organic chicken breast with crispy skin, bathed in a sweet-and-savoury glaze, with a side of fragrant mushroom rice topped with spring onion. It's comforting and hearty.
After a palate cleaner of cucumber sunomono salad (Dh25), the midori short rib (Dh98) is brought out. Rich and fatty short rib steak sits in a zesty green (midori is green in Japanese) Thai curry, making for a distinctly memorable blend of flavours.
Handmade by the chef at our table, the red salmon roe handroll (Dh36) is mixed in smoked chilli mayo and drizzled with teriyaki sauce, a balance of hot and tangy.
From the sushi selection, we try the sunrise maki (Dh115), an elaborate eight-piece pickled asparagus roll topped with a slice of marinated Wagyu striploin, with a soft sunny-side-up egg in the centre of the plate, its yolk meant to soak into each bite. While I am not a fan of egg in this form, it is an interesting concept.
For dessert, we choose an option from each menu. The “palm” is Tanso's spin on sticky date pudding. It's made with banana and medjool dates, soaked in a miso-caramel sticky sauce, with a side of ashta or clotted cream ice cream. A tribute to local flavours, this dessert is the right level of sweet and delivers pure comfort.
Finally, the chocolate and feuilletine (Dh58) personifies indulgence. Made of rich chocolate mousse, a maple brownie with karak ice cream and chocolate sauce, this one is for chocolate lovers, such as myself, who grew up in the Emirates.
Standout dish
Soil, the chargrilled aubergine dish, is the one that stays with me long after the meal. Cooked in truffle soy and smoked miso, the aubergine cuts through like butter, its insides caramelised with a serious glaze on the surface.
Both the taste and texture leave a lasting impression in this light yet incredibly flavourful and vegan-friendly dish. It would do well to be included in Tanso’s permanent menu post July.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Tanso can cost between Dh111 and Dh587. On the high end of the price spectrum lie the marrow & grain (Dh109), striploin ishiyaki (Dh420) and chocolate and feuilletine (Dh58).
The three most reasonable dishes across starter, main and dessert are miso soup (Dh22), layered katsu (Dh64) and ice cream and sorbet selection (Dh25).
The verdict
While I'm more a fan of traditional Japanese cuisine, I find Tanso's playful concept charming and easy to enjoy.
Contact information
Tanso, in Villa V32 in Jumeirah 1, is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from noon to 11pm. Reservations can be made by contacting 04 257 2835.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
